tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-43796750383407352922024-03-05T19:47:15.989-08:00Somewhere in the boundary layer...Thoughts from The ImagineN4tionImagineN4tionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00796429891687193684noreply@blogger.comBlogger32125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4379675038340735292.post-48854946243993029172016-08-02T13:37:00.002-07:002016-08-02T13:45:28.707-07:00Wifi Dev Board with Linux - $5: Onion IOT Omega2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLIIIihkxfDvJRM9UrWTTbnnL4Nxbgath1DCnvpV_TxaLVioPxQ3IyEg-bmLWdxj98I8kOGT_AxQhX3bZUUdqHDh3cWxyRKSFpZ5TFHzZPAP4nvUEXGHkUGHmwtjIvqlnAmKhXmxNsvgil/s1600/omega2tiny.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLIIIihkxfDvJRM9UrWTTbnnL4Nxbgath1DCnvpV_TxaLVioPxQ3IyEg-bmLWdxj98I8kOGT_AxQhX3bZUUdqHDh3cWxyRKSFpZ5TFHzZPAP4nvUEXGHkUGHmwtjIvqlnAmKhXmxNsvgil/s320/omega2tiny.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Image 1: Omega2 is tiny! However, I can only scale in my head relative to an onion, not a cherry.</span></div>
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I came across <a href="https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/onion/omega2-5-iot-computer-with-wi-fi-powered-by-linux" target="_blank">Onion's Omega2 wifi dev board today on Kickstarter</a> ...</h2>
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...which seems like it will be pretty awesome. It's a tiny, fcc certified (pending...), wifi dev board that importantly only costs $5, runs linux, can be programmed in your language of choice (NodeJS, Ruby, Python, PHP, C++...) and has all the pins you need. <b>Did you catch that... $5! Linux! Wifi! Tiny! Boom goes the dynamite!</b></div>
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The Omega2 comes from what seems to be an experienced team at Onion that already has one successful product launch (The first generation Omega) under their belts. If you purchase an Omega2 Onion is expecting them to ship by the end of this November.<br />
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The Omega2 not only has wifi but has add-on boards that can add bluetooth, cellular and gps along with a whole plethora of other add-on boards so that you can build out whatever your application is. It is fantastic that we are seeing more dev boards hit the market in the $5 range that are fully wifi capable with enough computing power to actually do something. Here's the full spec for the Omega2:<br />
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<li>580Mhz CPU</li>
<li>64MB Memory</li>
<li>16MB Storage</li>
<li>USB 2.0</li>
<li>b/g/n WiFi</li>
<li>15 GPIO</li>
<li>2 PWM</li>
<li>2 UART</li>
<li>1 I^2C</li>
<li>1 SPI</li>
<li>1 I^2S</li>
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There's also a souped up version of the Omega2 called the Omega2 Plus that will bump the memory up to 128MB with 32MB of storage as well as a MicroSD Slot.<br />
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There's a ton on the Kickstarter page for the board that goes beyond what I have listed here. You should check it out. Try not to get overwhelmed though as there is a plethora of extras that almost get confusing at a certain extent. The only other thing I was a little put off by was the knock in their marketing to Arduino being difficult. Arduino has done some amazing things for the community and we should honor that with a nod as opposed to a knock. Respect yer elders. I'll keep my trap shut though until I see how easy the Omega2 is, perhaps they'll knock my socks off. Let's hope so, and keep up the community momentum in pumping out lower and more powerful dev boards. Go-go gadget awesome shit!<br />
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ImagineN4tionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00796429891687193684noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4379675038340735292.post-23510676375245068272015-12-05T17:32:00.000-08:002015-12-05T17:33:53.286-08:00HOW TO: View Arduino Serial Data from Command Line<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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In the past I have always viewed the information I printed to the serial port within the Arduino IDE by opening the Serial Monitor. However, you can view the same information from the command line. To do so simply follow these steps.<br />
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Put this in an Arduino sketch:</div>
<code><br />
void setup() {<br />
Serial.begin(9600);<br />
}<br />
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void loop() {<br />
Serial.println("ImagineN4tion, right MEOW!");<br />
delay(500);<br />
}<br />
</code><br />
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Upload it to whatever development board you are working with.<br />
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Then, on Mac, open Terminal and execute the following command:<br />
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<pre style="background-color: #eeeeee; border: 0px; color: #222222; font-family: Consolas, Menlo, Monaco, 'Lucida Console', 'Liberation Mono', 'DejaVu Sans Mono', 'Bitstream Vera Sans Mono', 'Courier New', monospace, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; margin-bottom: 1em; max-height: 600px; overflow: auto; padding: 5px; width: auto; word-wrap: normal;"><code style="border: 0px; font-family: Consolas, Menlo, Monaco, 'Lucida Console', 'Liberation Mono', 'DejaVu Sans Mono', 'Bitstream Vera Sans Mono', 'Courier New', monospace, sans-serif; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; white-space: inherit;">ls /dev/tty.*</code></pre>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVCjKi3ctdH4T-ToL-ExlsJ-6ZSkS_ExQ1932v1k9ZYIAxCzlMoJY_GYIvgbF0VtHkSbNMIPb-ky5yzrt3W3m8obNSvTJ20RLUy71sfHNp3nvc5UqWbL3fpoHGLftIdGM02U-cTXlnB893/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+5.14.29+PM.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="105" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVCjKi3ctdH4T-ToL-ExlsJ-6ZSkS_ExQ1932v1k9ZYIAxCzlMoJY_GYIvgbF0VtHkSbNMIPb-ky5yzrt3W3m8obNSvTJ20RLUy71sfHNp3nvc5UqWbL3fpoHGLftIdGM02U-cTXlnB893/s400/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+5.14.29+PM.png" width="400" /></a><br />
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This will list all the serial connections. Identify which serial port you would like to listen to. Then execute the following command to listen to that port:<br />
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<pre style="background-color: #eeeeee; border: 0px; color: #222222; font-family: Consolas, Menlo, Monaco, 'Lucida Console', 'Liberation Mono', 'DejaVu Sans Mono', 'Bitstream Vera Sans Mono', 'Courier New', monospace, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; margin-bottom: 1em; max-height: 600px; overflow: auto; padding: 5px; width: auto; word-wrap: normal;"><code style="border: 0px; font-family: Consolas, Menlo, Monaco, 'Lucida Console', 'Liberation Mono', 'DejaVu Sans Mono', 'Bitstream Vera Sans Mono', 'Courier New', monospace, sans-serif; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; white-space: inherit;">screen /dev/tty.[yourSerialPortName] [yourBaudRate]</code></pre>
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You will enter your specific information to replace what is between the [ ] in this command. Thus, for me it becomes:<br />
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<pre style="background-color: #eeeeee; border: 0px; color: #222222; font-family: Consolas, Menlo, Monaco, 'Lucida Console', 'Liberation Mono', 'DejaVu Sans Mono', 'Bitstream Vera Sans Mono', 'Courier New', monospace, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; margin-bottom: 1em; max-height: 600px; overflow: auto; padding: 5px; width: auto; word-wrap: normal;"><code style="border: 0px; font-family: Consolas, Menlo, Monaco, 'Lucida Console', 'Liberation Mono', 'DejaVu Sans Mono', 'Bitstream Vera Sans Mono', 'Courier New', monospace, sans-serif; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; white-space: inherit;">screen /dev/tty.SLAB_USBtoUART 9600</code></pre>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZU-rTWP0RAKz9b5c1jmwkLVyCPx3pCz8LAQzD9_QVFDcCV-1Qvu3d7KcgIduyf0J-_iFuAm5UheNkYZztznuO0PmpNXoLyU9GfK9iGK7m0BpbISCaIzjD9q3HL4RYg0rOZWbzdjQ1ppbf/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+5.20.30+PM.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="65" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZU-rTWP0RAKz9b5c1jmwkLVyCPx3pCz8LAQzD9_QVFDcCV-1Qvu3d7KcgIduyf0J-_iFuAm5UheNkYZztznuO0PmpNXoLyU9GfK9iGK7m0BpbISCaIzjD9q3HL4RYg0rOZWbzdjQ1ppbf/s400/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+5.20.30+PM.png" width="400" /></a><br />
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A screen window will be opened within your terminal and you will be able to see whatever your development board is printing to the serial port, yahoo! The sketch I provided above simply prints "ImagineN4tion, right MEOW!" repeatedly.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyDAR9E2DetUGyKj3yNWB_YdCDIv0U82DdKXabdQmus-bbMK2s2q3ssq5EavzsbZKIw33rGyawEMhGv9TqJRvqdmklHDtXB5j9eKxBj6jKViRzV8WJSXJGgD9Fs6FVgbG0NRLcymQCv09o/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+5.21.11+PM.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyDAR9E2DetUGyKj3yNWB_YdCDIv0U82DdKXabdQmus-bbMK2s2q3ssq5EavzsbZKIw33rGyawEMhGv9TqJRvqdmklHDtXB5j9eKxBj6jKViRzV8WJSXJGgD9Fs6FVgbG0NRLcymQCv09o/s400/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+5.21.11+PM.png" width="356" /></a><br />
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ImagineN4tionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00796429891687193684noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4379675038340735292.post-78021581803046089672015-12-05T14:25:00.001-08:002015-12-20T12:29:16.495-08:00HOW TO: Up and running with Adafruit HUZZAH Feather ESP8266<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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INTRO:</div>
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Hello weary cyber-ether traveler! The following is a quick HOW TO that describes how to connect a device to the internet that you can use to control things in the physical world. We will be using a wifi enabled device called the "Adafruit HUZZAH Feather ESP8266" to connect to the internets. Don't you worry if none of that makes sense to you or you are unfamiliar with some of the lingo and materials. We play nicely with people whom are still learning and in pursuit of knowledge :). </div>
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Hardware used:</h2>
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<ol style="text-align: left;">
<li>MAC Comp-ooter</li>
<li>Adafruit HUZZAH Feather esp8266 (we will refer to as Huzzah from here on out) - <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/2821">https://www.adafruit.com/product/2821</a></li>
<li>USB A/micro cable - <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/products/898">https://www.adafruit.com/products/898</a></li>
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Software used:</h2>
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Important: Make sure to use an Arduino IDE version other than 1.6.6 as that version seems to not function well with the Huzzah ESP8266 boards.</h4>
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<li>Arduino IDE version 1.6.5 - <a href="https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/OldSoftwareReleases#00xx">https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/OldSoftwareReleases#00xx</a></li>
<li>Silicon Labs VCP Driver Install Disk - <a href="https://www.silabs.com/products/mcu/Pages/USBtoUARTBridgeVCPDrivers.aspx">https://www.silabs.com/products/mcu/Pages/USBtoUARTBridgeVCPDrivers.aspx</a></li>
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Initial Setup:</h2>
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Download and install the software components listed above.</div>
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Then, open the Arduino IDE and click Arduino->Preferences and enter the below URL into the "Additional Boards Manager URLs" field in the pop-up box (See images 1-3). <i><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></i></div>
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<span style="line-height: 18px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">URL to copy paste into the Additional Boards Manager URLs field:</span></span></div>
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<i><span style="line-height: 18px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>http://arduino.esp8266.com/stable/package_esp8266com_index.json</b></span></span></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg12ErO27BFKgC7elRg6WxQ1TK3mCDCj1ZiHGWLPIEY8ixgOjRNqaOWis-Nu5rL6DlolB7jeV1t-hbBjHZ1Q_AMLIhDUiqQTlriNx5YB2KsPKMBLSxBCWSObYZcEvCaohm8L775561_Buv5/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+12.44.31+PM.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg12ErO27BFKgC7elRg6WxQ1TK3mCDCj1ZiHGWLPIEY8ixgOjRNqaOWis-Nu5rL6DlolB7jeV1t-hbBjHZ1Q_AMLIhDUiqQTlriNx5YB2KsPKMBLSxBCWSObYZcEvCaohm8L775561_Buv5/s400/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+12.44.31+PM.png" width="340" /></a></div>
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Image 1: Open Preferences</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEU48haxKhpbMo6SsVMJjV4rcwkotxT4pkx1Hfoo_UINlcXJujUa1Iqm-745szPytoa3GhqKme42VbljVhhfi-rNNViWJ1XCWOTI0hwj3Ckuto7XlbtSqXyUPQfYL2A4JAb_ziTRePJScU/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+12.44.39+PM.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEU48haxKhpbMo6SsVMJjV4rcwkotxT4pkx1Hfoo_UINlcXJujUa1Iqm-745szPytoa3GhqKme42VbljVhhfi-rNNViWJ1XCWOTI0hwj3Ckuto7XlbtSqXyUPQfYL2A4JAb_ziTRePJScU/s400/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+12.44.39+PM.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Image 2: Preferences Pop-up</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCZpLu9dAJ4PUMkdHUnbuOwIA2lFraWQqG-6a95if3VMoUSaX0Hcds8C3GcQZQG-ESsTssaEQ499oY1HbDZyOhdAgGz0JSWo3iG9wEkf7esCcTxfMzIa3FIs0btwbEexr4YqsIPf_ySxZQ/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+12.45.03+PM.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="20" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCZpLu9dAJ4PUMkdHUnbuOwIA2lFraWQqG-6a95if3VMoUSaX0Hcds8C3GcQZQG-ESsTssaEQ499oY1HbDZyOhdAgGz0JSWo3iG9wEkf7esCcTxfMzIa3FIs0btwbEexr4YqsIPf_ySxZQ/s400/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+12.45.03+PM.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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Image 3: Adding the URL into the "Additional Boards Manager URLs" field.</div>
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Next click Tools->Boards->Boards Manager... and find "esp8266" in the boards manager. Then click install. (See images 4-5)</div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Image 4: Navigate to the Boards Manager...</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaqIh4IDe4izvsZTJEdQHUKRUV70pDASq2peSrwUz9XETVH-Wl15QJsGDSumAZrPsUZan4fYoD04JpjeCfmD9uLJQsPoLzxY2hgbW2l8WWs8qJAeD39iy_3lbeHEErXJ__KLL-omDMHpJR/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+1.07.13+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaqIh4IDe4izvsZTJEdQHUKRUV70pDASq2peSrwUz9XETVH-Wl15QJsGDSumAZrPsUZan4fYoD04JpjeCfmD9uLJQsPoLzxY2hgbW2l8WWs8qJAeD39iy_3lbeHEErXJ__KLL-omDMHpJR/s400/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+1.07.13+PM.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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Image 5: Find "esp8266" and install.</div>
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Now close down your Arduino IDE and restart. Once you have done this, click Tools->Board->Adafruit Huzzah esp8266 (See image 6).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibatg1pkZZFiYh-IgS_dIM9Qv_Ku9g6A_MYd5j3xJg5Kv7jjf-lGhZlGuCBunyq-4-OABjc6JsH08wKCNkjZyQB5sHkdRDQDpJ9JVZhi_fX8pZo8jpUExBI_nwDvhErV1kGkwpSBHS_y-l/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+1.12.53+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibatg1pkZZFiYh-IgS_dIM9Qv_Ku9g6A_MYd5j3xJg5Kv7jjf-lGhZlGuCBunyq-4-OABjc6JsH08wKCNkjZyQB5sHkdRDQDpJ9JVZhi_fX8pZo8jpUExBI_nwDvhErV1kGkwpSBHS_y-l/s400/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+1.12.53+PM.png" width="367" /></a></div>
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Image 6: Choose the Adafruit HUZZAH ESP8266</div>
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</i></span></span></i></span></span></div>
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<div>
Next, click Tools->CPU Frequency and choose 80mhz (See image 4).<br />
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</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6tYi2eNzswkw-QhtuspNXWd3zcXyC_GGWoqALgHeeMNIS6Cu8b7vYKJ5JJ0lelufCmLYh9RzYb6BlRaALPk9OLhfIFy4nWRvogH66fCvM8dYpW9h44m1uLhSQ7QKMxGq99HqTyIj7r_nh/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+12.42.27+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6tYi2eNzswkw-QhtuspNXWd3zcXyC_GGWoqALgHeeMNIS6Cu8b7vYKJ5JJ0lelufCmLYh9RzYb6BlRaALPk9OLhfIFy4nWRvogH66fCvM8dYpW9h44m1uLhSQ7QKMxGq99HqTyIj7r_nh/s400/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+12.42.27+PM.png" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Image 4: Selecting the CPU Frequency</div>
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</div>
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Then, click Tools->Upload Speed and choose 115200 (See image 5).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqrvtYmCEjJmLzvKEg6rTqZ8JF-OkMPrgedMsMrMpH-_PfqWcm85avB06zmeUujJzAcf_f7aHLdN60-DHQ9py2QCZ25M3-OOKJu_cSMqpyqvvRlXw1za5FjdYrKR44XW1w6TIZXnh1yBaT/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+12.42.42+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqrvtYmCEjJmLzvKEg6rTqZ8JF-OkMPrgedMsMrMpH-_PfqWcm85avB06zmeUujJzAcf_f7aHLdN60-DHQ9py2QCZ25M3-OOKJu_cSMqpyqvvRlXw1za5FjdYrKR44XW1w6TIZXnh1yBaT/s400/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+12.42.42+PM.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Image 5: Selecting the Upload Speed</span></span></div>
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Connect the HUZZAH Feather to your computer with the USB A/micro (See image 6).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMldC0R8FBRJ6Sp5nl7JlHgUyKQOl01KHG03ZtwgNgW1XeAVuCVoaoHAajr9Mu_IjMMyHHBRU0Y-1y2YPhcBL-TU1SIAyezn8w5enspwMXWAdXgDX9YP0T-TwxtyTamAv2TNyB-lQPSe9h/s640/blogger-image-1886963267.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMldC0R8FBRJ6Sp5nl7JlHgUyKQOl01KHG03ZtwgNgW1XeAVuCVoaoHAajr9Mu_IjMMyHHBRU0Y-1y2YPhcBL-TU1SIAyezn8w5enspwMXWAdXgDX9YP0T-TwxtyTamAv2TNyB-lQPSe9h/s400/blogger-image-1886963267.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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Image 6: Connect your Huzzah to your computer</div>
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Then, click Tools->Port and choose the port your Feather is connected to. It will likely say something like "USBtoUART" at the end (See image 10). If not, there's always trial and error with a limited amount of ports. Note, we had to deselect and reselect the port a couple of times when trying to successfully upload the sketch to our Huzzah.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtfsFdaW2NAJN5J9MUoZ2A2s0hnUB1nJy60yaL6wgyhVR-IXpnvyI05g-d3UnFo64ONzrJWyJsf4pkpnZW-AI_OlQMV0eNQecQQlO64MyupOHmRT7phPHlPiF5t63ksboihK-GE6ybVLr3/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+1.21.27+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="176" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtfsFdaW2NAJN5J9MUoZ2A2s0hnUB1nJy60yaL6wgyhVR-IXpnvyI05g-d3UnFo64ONzrJWyJsf4pkpnZW-AI_OlQMV0eNQecQQlO64MyupOHmRT7phPHlPiF5t63ksboihK-GE6ybVLr3/s400/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+1.21.27+PM.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Image 10: Choose the port your Huzzah is connected to.</div>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
The Fun Stuff!</h3>
<div>
Now that we have properly set everything up let's try and get some code on our Huzzah. Within the Arduino IDE, copy paste the following sketch, courtesy of the nice folks over at Adafruit (See image 11).</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
</div>
<br />
<code><br />
void setup() {<br />
pinMode(0, OUTPUT);<br />
}<br />
<br />
void loop() {<br />
digitalWrite(0, HIGH);<br />
delay(500);<br />
digitalWrite(0, LOW);<br />
delay(500);<br />
}<br />
</code><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhC8wV0V3KopST2xkw-ae62UpHg3RXJKLN3Nr2hA4WaOM_uZsj-G2t0MIF0qo_eQMX7P7nPxLoAF9U_MxsZndBfe688zN7lhI12183C2M7dVbuxEE5cY_YD3DSSWf9N4CgttZWkpa10ckA/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+1.57.45+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhC8wV0V3KopST2xkw-ae62UpHg3RXJKLN3Nr2hA4WaOM_uZsj-G2t0MIF0qo_eQMX7P7nPxLoAF9U_MxsZndBfe688zN7lhI12183C2M7dVbuxEE5cY_YD3DSSWf9N4CgttZWkpa10ckA/s400/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+1.57.45+PM.png" width="390" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Image 11: Copy code into the Arduino IDE</div>
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<br />
<div>
Then, in the upper left hand corner of the Arduino IDE, click "Verify" (See image 12) wait for the process to complete and then click "Upload" (See iamge 13) and the code will Upload to your Huzzah. If everything goes off without a hitch, a red LED on your Huzzah will blink on and off. Initially we received errors but after deselecting and then reselecting the Port (See image 8), it worked. Note that some users have reported needing to connect pin 0 to ground to successfully upload the code. Give this a shot if you are having issues.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh536hX0GVs5cAfx8o_JBQumdUKRemjfjB_iACDOiDCSRbAqNQ2c-ci9cQDoSD0-VGBJUWuzxmvuL0fvzJ5mSWtjO2GoHRyPHst5RJfjzRdVUwG2LhTG7CYWAT2mq6JfPsb4dLTZnkyJ1ic/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+1.58.59+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh536hX0GVs5cAfx8o_JBQumdUKRemjfjB_iACDOiDCSRbAqNQ2c-ci9cQDoSD0-VGBJUWuzxmvuL0fvzJ5mSWtjO2GoHRyPHst5RJfjzRdVUwG2LhTG7CYWAT2mq6JfPsb4dLTZnkyJ1ic/s200/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+1.58.59+PM.png" width="193" /></a></div>
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Image 12: The Verify button in the Arduino IDE</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJBv_nThNBIr6w3ykM1JutUTpsIZGuK3a3DXdy13gbU8wqrj80OiPiykpjEok5v7v5Ih5apaCxg9dLDIbwhqXlmJSdx5-OABqMYb40grNdfwOYhIBF-INLgUtllVrSz8rau96sISIzHGU6/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+1.59.05+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJBv_nThNBIr6w3ykM1JutUTpsIZGuK3a3DXdy13gbU8wqrj80OiPiykpjEok5v7v5Ih5apaCxg9dLDIbwhqXlmJSdx5-OABqMYb40grNdfwOYhIBF-INLgUtllVrSz8rau96sISIzHGU6/s200/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+1.59.05+PM.png" width="200" /></a></div>
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Image 13: The Upload button in the Arduino IDE</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/_76GLZ8c9B8" width="420"></iframe><br /></div>
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Movie 1: Hello world, blinky time!</div>
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<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Next Steps</h2>
Go mobile with a <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/1578" target="_blank">lipo battery pack</a> and make your Huzzah do something cool. Use your ImagineN4tion...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-el3jLgNrmvknUKdR2z2gwEOWsbDM7GzeqKT5SmCtepuPYjGGcsRsIzmrbNue0o_yYEvvAGcCQEEGCrYhMTKf1ncx0unRu780t84vqd0ZaUSpaO8lGAvXgkqwXyvvmLJOSFE8hTTElC54/s640/blogger-image--1603989602.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-el3jLgNrmvknUKdR2z2gwEOWsbDM7GzeqKT5SmCtepuPYjGGcsRsIzmrbNue0o_yYEvvAGcCQEEGCrYhMTKf1ncx0unRu780t84vqd0ZaUSpaO8lGAvXgkqwXyvvmLJOSFE8hTTElC54/s400/blogger-image--1603989602.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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ImagineN4tionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00796429891687193684noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4379675038340735292.post-2556865609282141732015-11-12T13:10:00.003-08:002015-11-12T13:13:18.351-08:00PHP - Render partial view within another controller's view<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<b>Goal:</b><br />
Render a view called view_B within another view called view_A. Note that view_B belongs to a different controller than view_A and thus is in a different directory.<br />
<br />
<b>Solution:</b><br />
Put this within view_A's code, where "site" is the directory of view_B within the "views" directory and "dashmenu" is the name of view_B.<br />
<br />
<?php echo $this->render('//site/dashmenu'); ?><br />
<br />
aka, generically:<br />
<br />
<?php echo $this->render('//view_B_Directory/view_B'); ?><br />
<br />
Note that the "//" double slash here denotes the path is within the views directory.<br />
<br />
<br />
There is also a more verbose way to do this:<br />
<!-- a more verbose way --><br />
<?php echo Yii::$app->view->render('//site/dashmenu'); ?> </div>
ImagineN4tionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00796429891687193684noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4379675038340735292.post-10337315569601391182015-11-12T13:06:00.001-08:002015-12-05T18:09:16.866-08:00PHP - Intro<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Not a huge fan of PHP but unfortunately I was turned on to a framework called Yii2 to use during my first foray into web development. My first iteration of a site that is an accompaniment to a piece of internet connected hardware has been built with PHP on the Yii2 framework. The journey has involved a considerable amount of learning and I have decided to park some of those learnings here on Somewhere in the Boundary Layer. Thus, you will start seeing tidbits of knowledge that I want to log for future use in short posts.<div>
<br></div>
<div>
As an aside, I have been hardware hacking a lot with node.js as well. Thus, you will find some node and socket.io strewn about the blog as well. If you're going to follow suite with either choose node.js and not php as node is better suited for event driven programming for connected devices.</div>
</div>
ImagineN4tionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00796429891687193684noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4379675038340735292.post-81050314406374448912015-11-02T15:08:00.003-08:002015-11-02T15:15:13.045-08:00Internet Connected LCD<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Built an internet connected LCD using an <a href="http://www.adafruit.com/product/2471" target="_blank">Adafruit Huzzah ESP8266 board</a>, the Arduino IDE, node.js and socket.io. Here's a short video of it in action and a link to a page where you can write your own message to the LCD screen. Send your twitter handle to the LCD and I'll tweet a pic of it back at ya!<br />
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Here's a page to play with the LCD:</h3>
<a href="http://fast-bayou-5924.herokuapp.com/">http://fast-bayou-5924.herokuapp.com/</a><br />
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<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
</h3>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Here's a video of it in action:</h3>
<div>
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<div>
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/gmrXiwWc8Cs" width="560"></iframe><br /></div>
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ImagineN4tionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00796429891687193684noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4379675038340735292.post-40075713871890740682015-10-31T18:03:00.004-07:002016-11-15T12:23:53.901-08:00HOW TO: Connect ESP8266 to LCD via i2c<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Bonjour-nO! This post will show you how to connect an Adafruit Huzzah ESP8266 board to a standard HD44780 LCD via i2c. I just did this myself and it took way too many google searches to battle through dumb issues so I hope this saves you some time.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/XkIc_TzrDHQ" width="420"></iframe><br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<b><u>MATERIALS:</u></b></h3>
Adafruit Huzzah ESP8266 board (other esp8266 boards might work as well but this was done using the huzzah board) - <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/products/2471">https://www.adafruit.com/products/2471</a><br />
USB to serial cable - <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/954">https://www.adafruit.com/product/954</a><br />
Bread board<br />
Male and Female wires for breadboarding<br />
LCD (we use a 16x2) - <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/products/181">https://www.adafruit.com/products/181</a><br />
i2c backpack - <a href="http://www.adafruit.com/products/292">http://www.adafruit.com/products/292</a><br />
Arduino IDE<br />
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<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<b><u>ASSUMPTIONS:</u></b></h3>
I will assume you know how to setup your Arduino IDE to program the esp8266 huzzah board. If you do not know how to do this, checkout my instructions on those topics here: <to come>. (See also Adafruit's tutorial, <a href="https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-huzzah-esp8266-breakout/using-arduino-ide">https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-huzzah-esp8266-breakout/using-arduino-ide</a>). I'll also let you follow Adafruit's tutorial on how to get the i2c backpack soldered onto your lcd, <a href="https://learn.adafruit.com/i2c-spi-lcd-backpack/overview">https://learn.adafruit.com/i2c-spi-lcd-backpack/overview</a>.<br />
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<h3>
<b><u>DEALING WITH LIBRARIES:</u></b></h3>
The most brutal part of making this work was figuring out what libraries I had installed in the Arduino IDE, which were duplicate libraries, and where all of the libraries were found. The two libraries you need for this project are...<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Wire</li>
<li>LiquidCrystal (the updated version that includes i2c support)</li>
</ul>
<br />
It is important to note that there are multiple locations with libraries that the Arduino IDE references. Here is a synopsis of the locations of my library files (yours may be slightly different) and descriptions of what each location contains.<br />
<br />
<ol>
<li>The libraries you manually load, found within the "libraries" folder in the same folder your sketches are saved to - C:\Users\YOUR_NAME\Documents\Arduino\libraries</li>
<li>The libraries that the Arduino IDE comes with, found within the location that you installed the Arduino IDE - C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries</li>
<li>The libraries that were installed when you setup the Arduino IDE to be able to program your ESP8266 - C:\Users\YOUR_NAME\AppData\Roaming\Arduino15\packages\esp8266\hardware\esp8266\1.6.5-947-g39819f0\libraries</li>
</ol>
<br />
<u>Your goal is to ensure that there is only ONE copy of the Wire.h and LiquidCrystal.h libraries for the ESP8266 which is up-to-date and installed.</u><br />
<br />
For the <b>Wire library</b>, I ended up going into locations 1 and 2 listed above and moving out any folder and it's contents named "Wire" since the Wire library was installed into location 3 with the other esp8266 libraries upon setting up my Arduino IDE for esp8266 boards. If the Wire library was for some reason not installed into location 3, you can find all the esp8266 libraries here:<br />
<a href="https://github.com/esp8266/Arduino/tree/master/libraries">https://github.com/esp8266/Arduino/tree/master/libraries</a><br />
Any libraries I moved out I just tossed into a backup folder somewhere to store them in case I needed to revert back.<br />
<br />
For the <b>LiquidCrystal library</b>, I moved all LiquidCrystal folders and files out of locations 1, 2 and 3 into my backup folder. I then downloaded the i2c supported version of the library from Adafruit here:<br />
<a href="https://github.com/adafruit/LiquidCrystal">https://github.com/adafruit/LiquidCrystal</a><br />
and installed it via the the Arduino IDE's zip file library loader (Click Sketch-->Include Library-->Add .Zip Library...).<br />
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<br /></div>
<div>
Once you have done these two things you should be able to go to "Sketch-->Include Library" and see both the "Wire" and "LiquidCrystal-master" libraries under "Contributed libraries".</div>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<b><u>WIRE IT:</u></b></h3>
First things second, let's get this sucker wired up. We are going to power the whole shoot-n-shebang off the USB to serial power wire. Here's a pinout that will help you figure out what to connect to what:<br />
<br />
<table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="border-collapse: collapse; text-align: center; width: 526px;"><colgroup><col style="mso-width-alt: 5083; mso-width-source: userset; width: 104pt;" width="139"></col> <col style="mso-width-alt: 5412; mso-width-source: userset; width: 111pt;" width="148"></col> <col style="mso-width-alt: 4937; mso-width-source: userset; width: 101pt;" width="135"></col> <col style="mso-width-alt: 3803; mso-width-source: userset; width: 78pt;" width="104"></col> </colgroup><tbody>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"> <td class="xl63" height="20" style="height: 15.0pt; width: 104pt;" width="139">Device</td> <td class="xl63" style="border-left: none; width: 111pt;" width="148">Pin</td> <td class="xl63" style="border-left: none; width: 101pt;" width="135">Connect to Device</td> <td class="xl63" style="border-left: none; width: 78pt;" width="104">Connect to Pin</td> </tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"> <td class="xl64" height="20" style="border-top: none; height: 15.0pt;">USB to Serial Cable</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Rx (3.3V, white)</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">ESP8266 Huzzah</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Tx</td> </tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"> <td class="xl64" height="20" style="border-top: none; height: 15.0pt;">USB to Serial Cable</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Tx (3.3V, green)</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">ESP8266 Huzzah</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Rx</td> </tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"> <td class="xl64" height="20" style="border-top: none; height: 15.0pt;">USB to Serial Cable</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Power (5V @ 500mA)</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Breadboard</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Power Rail</td> </tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"> <td class="xl64" height="20" style="border-top: none; height: 15.0pt;">USB to Serial Cable</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">GND</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">ESP8266 Huzzah</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">GND</td> </tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"> <td class="xl64" height="20" style="border-top: none; height: 15.0pt;">i2c Back Pack</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">LAT</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">none</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">none</td> </tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"> <td class="xl64" height="20" style="border-top: none; height: 15.0pt;">i2c Back Pack</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">DAT</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">ESP8266 Huzzah</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">2</td> </tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"> <td class="xl64" height="20" style="border-top: none; height: 15.0pt;">i2c Back Pack</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">CLK</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">ESP8266 Huzzah</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">14</td> </tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"> <td class="xl64" height="20" style="border-top: none; height: 15.0pt;">i2c Back Pack</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">5V</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Breadboard</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Power Rail</td> </tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"> <td class="xl64" height="20" style="border-top: none; height: 15.0pt;">i2c Back Pack</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">GND</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Breadboard</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">GND Rail</td> </tr>
<tr height="20" style="height: 15.0pt;"> <td class="xl64" height="20" style="border-top: none; height: 15.0pt;">ESP8266 Huzzah</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">GND</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">Breadboard</td> <td class="xl64" style="border-left: none; border-top: none;">GND Rail</td> </tr>
</tbody></table>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<b><u>CODE IT:</u></b></h3>
Next, you will go through the usual process to save code to the Huzzah board by holding down the GPIO0 button, clicking the "Reset" button and then letting go of the GPIO0 button. This action sets your board into bootload mode and you can then click to upload the sketch from the Arduino IDE. You will use the following code to upload to your board.<br />
The code can also be found here:<br />
<br />
<br />
<code><br />
/*<br />
Demonstration sketch for Adafruit i2c/SPI LCD backpack<br />
using MCP23008 I2C expander<br />
( http://www.ladyada.net/products/i2cspilcdbackpack/index.html )<br />
<br />
This sketch prints "Hello World!" to the LCD<br />
and shows the time since the board was reset.<br />
<br />
The circuit see: http://www.imaginen4tion.blogspot.com/2015/10/how-to-connect-esp8266-to-lcd-via-i2c.html</code><br />
<code><br />
*/<br />
<br />
// Originally written by Adafruit.<br />
// Modified for esp8266 by Bob Rowe on 10.31.15, giddyup!<br />
<br />
// include the library code:<br />
#include "Wire.h"<br />
#include "LiquidCrystal.h"<br />
// Note, problems with your libraries is a common issue due to multiple<br />
// libraries with the same name getting imported into your Arduino IDE<br />
// when setting up to develop on esp8266.<br />
// See for more info:<br />
<br />
<br />
// Connect to LCD via i2c, default address #0 (A0-A2 not jumpered)<br />
LiquidCrystal lcd(0);<br />
// "Default address" simply refers to how your Adafruit i2c backpack is setup.<br />
// See here for more info: https://learn.adafruit.com/i2c-spi-lcd-backpack/connect-to-i2c<br />
<br />
void setup() { <br />
// Initiate the i2c connection on esp pins 2 (DAT/SDA) and 14 (CLK/SCL)<br />
Wire.begin(2,14);<br />
<br />
// set up the LCD's number of rows and columns:<br />
// Here we are using a standard LCD with 16 columns and 2 rows<br />
// example of LCD: https://www.adafruit.com/products/181<br />
lcd.begin(16, 2);<br />
// Print a message to the LCD.<br />
lcd.print("hello, world!");<br />
}<br />
<br />
void loop() {<br />
// set the cursor to column 0, line 1<br />
// (note: line 1 is the second row, since counting begins with 0):<br />
lcd.setCursor(0, 1);<br />
<br />
// print the number of seconds since reset:<br />
lcd.print(millis()/1000);<br />
lcd.setBacklight(HIGH);<br />
delay(500);<br />
lcd.setBacklight(LOW);<br />
delay(500);<br />
}<br />
</code><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<b><u>TROUBLESHOOT:</u></b></h3>
Problems with libraries - search your computer for the library.h file you are having issue with, eg: search "Wire.h". Then ensure that you only have one version of that library within the Arduino IDE's reach.<br />
Uploaded code to Arduino and nothing is happening - Test that the pins you are using for DAT and CLK (2 & 14 in the code above) are working correctly. Find an LED and turn it on and off or read the voltage coming out of the pin. Also, ensure your LCD is good by seeing if the backlight will turn on by feeding 5V to pin 15 and GND pin 16.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Good luck, I hope this helps!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<adventures in hacking etsy seo><br />
<a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/CityCoaster" target="_blank">shop</a><br />
<a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/460487204/chicago-coasters-4-pack-gift-holiday?ref=shop_home_feat_4" target="_blank">Chicago Laser Cut Coasters</a><br />
<a href="https://citycoaster.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">blog filler</a><br />
</adventures in hacking etsy seo><br />
<br />
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<br /></div>
ImagineN4tionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00796429891687193684noreply@blogger.comSeattle, WA, USA47.6062095 -122.332070847.2636815 -122.9775178 47.9487375 -121.68662379999999tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4379675038340735292.post-76568037010159085292013-06-09T22:40:00.005-07:002016-11-15T12:24:24.350-08:00HOW TO: Connect your Arduino to the Internet as a Web Server<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The INTERNET OF THINGS...<br />
< queue lightning and thunder ><br />
<br />
It's what all the cool kids are doing these days. Why should they have all the fun? Let's setup an Arduino as a Web Server that anyone, anywhere can view. Why would we do such a thing? Possible projects include collecting data from a sensor and posting it to the Web or controlling an actuator remotely. Think internet connected fart sensor that logs realtime how awesome your roommate's flatulence is, or perhaps, a robot that hides in the bushes and pokes pedestrians sauntering by.<br />
<br />
Here is a quick video detailing the setup that I will take you through. We have a servo and an LED that are controlled via a Web page. The control page is accessible from both the private and public networks (aka: internet accessible for anyone). The video shows me turning both the servo and LED on and off from my computer and iPhone (with the wireless network turned off so as to force it to access the Arduino from the public network). I also have a live video feed coming from a wireless IP camera so that you can view what is happening remotely in the case you were to use this functionality for a remote control application that required monitoring of the system.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/d8dyhWSZgNI?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
Awesome, so let's starting tinkering on Al Gore's interweb. Here's how to do it and what you'll need:<br />
<br />
<b>Materials:</b><br />
1) Internet connection<br />
2) Internet router and associated information (LAN IP address, WAN IP Address... don't panic more on this soon)<br />
3) <a href="http://arduino.cc/en/Guide/HomePage" target="_blank">Arduino</a><br />
4) Arduino compatible Ethernet shield (I am using the shield by Seeed Studio)<br />
5) Ethernet cable<br />
6) Computer with Arduino programming ability<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Lingo:</b><br />
1) LAN =<a href="http://compnetworking.about.com/cs/lanvlanwan/g/bldef_lan.htm" target="_blank"> Local Area Network</a><br />
2) WAN = <a href="http://compnetworking.about.com/cs/lanvlanwan/g/bldef_wan.htm" target="_blank">Wide Area Network</a><br />
3) IP Address = <a href="http://compnetworking.about.com/od/workingwithipaddresses/g/ip-addresses.htm" target="_blank">Internet Prototocol Address</a><br />
4) ISP = Internet Service Provider Lets get going!<br />
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<u>STEP 1: COLLECT INFORMATION ABOUT YOUR HOME NETWORK</u> </h3>
<br />
First things first, you need to find the following information about your home network: <br />
<br />
a) The login name and password for your router. My login credentials were listed on the back of my router on a sticker. They were super complex credentials... Login = "admin", Password = "password".<br />
<br />
b) Your LAN IP address (aka: Private IP address) and/or your router manager login site. I have a NetGear router and it listed the router manager login site on the back sticker as http://www.routerlogin.net. If you do not have something similar on your router try entering these standard LAN IP addresses into your web browser <span style="background-color: white; color: black;">192.168.2.1, <span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 12px; line-height: 18px;"> </span>192.168.0.1, 192.168.1.1</span> . You will know it works if you land on a page that requests a login and password (which should be provided on the back of your router or in documentation from your internet service provider). If you connected via a router login site, you can then find your LAN IP by browsing around and finding a page that details your LAN. The IP address will generally be of the form xxx.xxx.x.x.<br />
<br />
c) Your WAN IP address (aka: Public IP address). This one is easy. Just google "<a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=whats+my+ip&aq=f&sugexp=chrome,mod=6&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8" target="_blank">what's my ip address</a>". Google returns your WAN/Public IP address. This information will also be listed once you login to your router.<br />
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<u>STEP 2: PLUG N' CHUG</u> </h3>
<br />
a) Plug the Ethernet shield into your Arduino.<br />
<br />
b) Plug your Arduino into your computer via the USB cable.<br />
<br />
c) Plug your Ethernet cable into the Ethernet shield and the other end into an open Ethernet plug on your router.<br />
<u><br /></u>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<u>STEP 3: SETUP PORT FORWARDING</u> </h3>
<br />
If we want anyone, anywhere to have access to the Arduino Web Server we need to setup something called port forwarding. This is an option you can set within your Internet router manager. To make a long story short, port forwarding will allow interactions between the WAN and the LAN, aka: It exposes your Arduino to the Public network as opposed to keeping it isolated in the Private network. Thus, anyone, anywhere with Internet access can interact with your Arduino. <br />
<br />
a) Find the IP address of your Arduino. To do this login to your router manager (see Step 1 parts a & b). Once logged into your router, find a page titled something similar to "Attached Devices". Once here, you will be able to see the LAN IP address unique to your Arduino, commonly 192.168.1.177. <br />
<br />
b) Once you have the Arduino LAN IP, find a page within your router called "Port Forwarding". From here you will have to find the option to "add custom service" or something similar. To setup a new custom service, enter the LAN IP address of your Arduino, choose TCP/UDP for protocol, choose an open port, how about 8081 - use this number for both the starting port and ending port, and a name for the new service. Once created, your new custom service (port forwarding for your Arduino) it will show up in the port forwarding list.<br />
<br />
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<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<u>STEP 4: CODE AND TEST</u> </h3>
<br />
Now that all the network bogusness is taken care of we can focus on making widgets whirl. This code creates a Web Server that can be accessed by entering "http://xx.xxx.xx.xx:8081/" where, xx.xxx.xx.xx is your WAN IP address. If you used a different port than 8081 just change the last digits following the ":" to the port you used. The web page has 5 buttons that control an LED on pin 9 and a servo on pin 6. <br />
<br />
a) Save the code down to your Arduino. Get code here: <a href="http://bit.ly/1OfRnN3">http://bit.ly/1OfRnN3</a><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Note, this is modified code relying heavily on code from the following source:</span> <span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Arduino Cookbook, Second Edition</i>, by Michael Margolis with Nick Weldin (O'Reilly). Copyright 2012 Michael Margolis, Nicholas Weldin, 978-1-4493-1387-6.</span><br />
<br />
b) Go to "http://xx.xxx.xx.xx:8081/" or whatever is appropriate relative to how you set things up. Hopefully at this point you see a pretty basic Web page that has buttons for turning on and off the LED and making the servo go forward, backward, or stop. The code I supplied also imports a live video feed from an IP camera but this functionality is commented out. Perhaps in the future I will detail how to set that up in another post.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<u>STEP 5: BUILD THE CIRCUIT</u> </h3>
<br />
The circuit I built is shown below. This circuit depiction was drawn using a great tool called <a href="http://fritzing.org/" target="_blank">Fritzing</a>. This is pretty self explanatory. The resistor is a 220ohm resistor. <br />
<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_la6oT6GB_S-XjxQQcA9BPBF3xcpEd-6IXtqCIabiTRf5lplennRvHeOeQqetkfbaEpe9faK7Uhx_DNlW5rOpryL5o6XDZ5ywcmuvEGOqDH00ca-xNK8NLiAHxb_q_Jn3iRL3lwBwTs72/s1600/IoT+Example_bb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_la6oT6GB_S-XjxQQcA9BPBF3xcpEd-6IXtqCIabiTRf5lplennRvHeOeQqetkfbaEpe9faK7Uhx_DNlW5rOpryL5o6XDZ5ywcmuvEGOqDH00ca-xNK8NLiAHxb_q_Jn3iRL3lwBwTs72/s400/IoT+Example_bb.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<adventures in hacking etsy seo><br />
<a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/CityCoaster" target="_blank">Shop</a><br />
<a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/460487204/chicago-city-coasters-white-4-pack-by?ref=pr_shop" target="_blank">Chicago Laser Cut</a><br />
<a href="https://citycoaster.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Coaster Blog</a><br />
</adventures in hacking etsy seo></div>
ImagineN4tionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00796429891687193684noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4379675038340735292.post-37408204033237409992013-05-12T16:40:00.001-07:002013-05-12T16:43:06.986-07:00Good Ol' TR<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">Inspirational quote from a legacy.<br />
<br />
"It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles, or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood; who strives valiantly; who errs, who comes short again and again, because there is no effort without error and shortcoming; but who does actually strive to do the deeds; who knows great enthusiasms, the great devotions; who spends himself in a worthy cause; who at the best knows in the end the triumph of high achievement, and who at the worst, if he fails, at least fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat."</div><br />
~Teddy Roosevelt<br />
ImagineN4tionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00796429891687193684noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4379675038340735292.post-74547534277507570822013-04-21T13:15:00.001-07:002015-11-01T17:29:09.387-08:00Blurring the Lines: Digital Control of the Physical World<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">I am continually fascinated by the fact that we are gaining more and more control over our physical world via the digital realm. The ability to code and hack hardware is providing a conduit for Makers to blur the lines between the screen and their surroundings. This no-mans-land between physical and digital is ripe with opportunity and will dramatically affect many areas of our lives in the future. <br />
<br />
This page is a testing ground for our forays into allowing others to digitally control our physical surroundings. The setup utilized is composed of an Arduino and ethernet shield running a Webserver with a wireless Wansview IP camera feed embedded into the webpage.<br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">Click the buttons below to control whatever actuator is hooked up today :)</h3><br />
<i>Note: The video feed immediately below will only work if you are using Chrome or Firefox as your browser. If you are using another browser scroll down to view another feed suited for your browser. The Chrome and Firefox feed works better as it is optimized and operates much quicker. Thank you to The Mad Hermit for the <a href="http://www.themadhermit.net/how-to-embed-video-from-your-foscam-fi8918w-wireless-camera-into-your-web-page/" target="_blank">turnkey code</a> to imbed video feeds.</i><br />
<br />
Test Video Feed with Controls:<br />
<br />
FOR CHROME AND FIREFOX<br />
<img name="FoscamCamera" src="http://50.159.64.235:1026/videostream.cgi?user=peon&pwd=noob" width="320" height="240" alt="Live Feed" style="background-color: #009999" /><br />
<br />
FOR BROWSERS OTHER THAN CHROME AND FIREFOX<br />
<img src="http://50.159.64.235:1026/snapshot.cgi?user=peon&pwd=noob&t=" id="refresh" name="refresh" onerror="reload(this)" onload="reload(this)" /> <br />
<br />
</div><br />
<script language="JavaScript" type="text/javascript">
function reload()
{
setTimeout('reloadImg("refresh")',1000)
};
function reloadImg(id)
{
var obj = document.getElementById(id);
var date = new Date();
obj.src = "http://50.159.64.235:1026/snapshot.cgi?user=peon&pwd=noob&t=" + Math.floor(date.getTime()/1000);
}
</script>ImagineN4tionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00796429891687193684noreply@blogger.comSeattle, WA, USA47.6062095 -122.332070847.2636865 -122.9775178 47.9487325 -121.68662379999999tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4379675038340735292.post-75721021140085901722013-03-26T21:56:00.001-07:002013-03-26T21:56:35.294-07:00Scalability Continued...<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
One of the hardest hurdles we face as entrepreneurs within the hardware space is going from your garage to the shelf. How can we successfully navigate from an Arduino prototype into the realm of consumer products? <div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Another piece to the puzzle...</div>
<div>
Hans from HARDWARE STARTUP comments on the subject <a href="http://hwstartup.wordpress.com/2012/09/14/how-to-go-from-arduino-prototype-to-selling-product/" target="_blank">HERE</a>.<div>
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ImagineN4tionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00796429891687193684noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4379675038340735292.post-17792988597132239422013-03-26T21:49:00.000-07:002013-03-26T22:04:47.388-07:00Collaborate to Innovate Released<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
We have really been jammin' lately and the release of our previously filmed 3 minute documentary was lost in the mix. Oops! Thank you to everyone who contributed including Limor of Adafruit and Eric of Instructables.<br />
<br /></div>
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/47988590" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe> <br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/47988590">Collaborate to Innovate</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user12597329">Whim</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</div>
ImagineN4tionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00796429891687193684noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4379675038340735292.post-20605665663854348512012-09-14T00:28:00.000-07:002012-09-14T00:28:22.584-07:00Generate Your Own QR Codes<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Quick and easy QR code generation. Choose the URL, the message, the Contact vCard or the map you want to link to! Then choose the colors you want and hit generate. Check it out:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://myqr.co/">http://myqr.co/</a><br />
<br />
Here is one we generated for our main site. Download a QR code reader app on your smart phone and scan it!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijjSW2dEk0JfApm4_DJK4-icryfKVk59w8eqh983OCpJAWgJkVNGn7sKh404Md6kvIbPRMe5n_W8MG2d1x9LCmJpedX9pQR7GK19FDK6qhw-Cb46b46PmJcXOLjFmt9hMcB_rVXbxIIiBo/s1600/qrcode.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijjSW2dEk0JfApm4_DJK4-icryfKVk59w8eqh983OCpJAWgJkVNGn7sKh404Md6kvIbPRMe5n_W8MG2d1x9LCmJpedX9pQR7GK19FDK6qhw-Cb46b46PmJcXOLjFmt9hMcB_rVXbxIIiBo/s1600/qrcode.png" /></a></div>
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ImagineN4tionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00796429891687193684noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4379675038340735292.post-22821665109920619732012-09-14T00:18:00.000-07:002012-09-17T22:24:32.604-07:00Thingy: Arduino Enclosure<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
One of us just uploaded an Arduino mountable enclosure to thingiverse. The lid of the enclosure slides onto the enclosure body along a grooved track and locks in place once the tabbed wings on each side clear rectangular holes in the enclosure body (see assembly drawings). To remove the lid, pinch the tabbed wings and slide the lid off using the ridge at the front of the lid for traction. <br />
<br />
You can check it out and download the files here.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:30460" target="_blank">ARDUINO ENCLOSURE, REV1</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:30458" target="_blank">ARDUINO ENCLOSURE LID, REV1</a><br />
<br />
<br />
Below are a few pictures of the design.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWoMONrZfdKaZw74tvDc3GZFc1O2rZNPnQYFh_F8xhJ0Ju9Nfe-TfH65TS1UC8yZZDETv_aRwYdeqQZHmsZOY_7Oi13fZU5gB7dwYphpWFPO0MqrPDFqouS1ZhnczcA2Vi4BYNgmiIW2A-/s1600/Arduino+Enclosure+Assembly.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWoMONrZfdKaZw74tvDc3GZFc1O2rZNPnQYFh_F8xhJ0Ju9Nfe-TfH65TS1UC8yZZDETv_aRwYdeqQZHmsZOY_7Oi13fZU5gB7dwYphpWFPO0MqrPDFqouS1ZhnczcA2Vi4BYNgmiIW2A-/s320/Arduino+Enclosure+Assembly.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Image 1: Assembly drawing with lid slightly removed</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXC_UpvgdS-9wYnViUUVm7o4dLwRhyphenhyphenWyoCyP_9QpKGV3PvzXWRpdBlzi-RQrwZjVfYPuDtLAvKwW3abhAehNLd4RKct1e1B_RYDvZJJy2XupZ1h21rqrAO5PWxaleoI-eLogKAhj7qZDuP/s1600/Arduino+Enclosure+Assembly2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="197" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXC_UpvgdS-9wYnViUUVm7o4dLwRhyphenhyphenWyoCyP_9QpKGV3PvzXWRpdBlzi-RQrwZjVfYPuDtLAvKwW3abhAehNLd4RKct1e1B_RYDvZJJy2XupZ1h21rqrAO5PWxaleoI-eLogKAhj7qZDuP/s320/Arduino+Enclosure+Assembly2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Image 2: Assembly drawing with lid in closed position</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDX34Hjf9RMt3KFFyLZ6dpvvE3jN1CBSi5zmRgqk3V7MVHcReBFqqbKttqRMWOkrc1j2Mag1plfq8vtV97WXtEPvVYEWx8hT4MaJoGfgsoTDiOzGfGWoOccyxYcfcCn6VsftJiKzFjV3PW/s1600/Arduino+Enclosure+Lid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDX34Hjf9RMt3KFFyLZ6dpvvE3jN1CBSi5zmRgqk3V7MVHcReBFqqbKttqRMWOkrc1j2Mag1plfq8vtV97WXtEPvVYEWx8hT4MaJoGfgsoTDiOzGfGWoOccyxYcfcCn6VsftJiKzFjV3PW/s320/Arduino+Enclosure+Lid.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Image 3: Part drawing of lid</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnKy3pjlNlVPWFYfYY07A2y98zjQg_JyOJPrsEIdXgy_7kUHecGGX8jB2Lf-Fdo78AS08Pb3YRpIlqf7y1FblkpSaqcv3hCujc7Sl71M4cpCLNQ1Z1DJmNd2cJAJEqQ5gz9aLefjk99926/s1600/Arduino+Enclosure.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnKy3pjlNlVPWFYfYY07A2y98zjQg_JyOJPrsEIdXgy_7kUHecGGX8jB2Lf-Fdo78AS08Pb3YRpIlqf7y1FblkpSaqcv3hCujc7Sl71M4cpCLNQ1Z1DJmNd2cJAJEqQ5gz9aLefjk99926/s320/Arduino+Enclosure.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Image 4: Part drawing of enclosure</div>
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ImagineN4tionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00796429891687193684noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4379675038340735292.post-87896462979046701502012-08-12T23:43:00.000-07:002012-08-22T22:13:34.367-07:00Collaborate to Innovate, Content Resources<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
This post is serving as a resource tracking page content for the documentary "Collaborate to Innovate".<br />
<br />
<u>WSJ</u><br />
Reemergence of tinkering/hacking and its implications<br />
<a href="http://online.wsj.com/article/SB125798004542744219.html">http://online.wsj.com/article/SB125798004542744219.html</a><br />
The role of innovation in the economy<br />
<a href="http://blogs.wsj.com/economics/2009/11/11/qa-josh-lerner-on-innovations-role-in-the-economy/">http://blogs.wsj.com/economics/2009/11/11/qa-josh-lerner-on-innovations-role-in-the-economy/</a><br />
<br />
<u>Tribeca and MakerBot</u><br />
Disruptive Innovations<br />
<a href="http://www.tribecafilm.com/disruptive/">http://www.tribecafilm.com/disruptive/</a><br />
Bre Pettis Awarded<br />
<a href="http://www.makerbot.com/blog/2012/05/01/makerbot-ceo-awarded-for-being-disruptive/">http://www.makerbot.com/blog/2012/05/01/makerbot-ceo-awarded-for-being-disruptive/</a><br />
<br />
<u>Economics Library</u><br />
Robert Solow<br />
<a href="http://econlib.org/library/Enc/bios/Solow.html">http://econlib.org/library/Enc/bios/Solow.html</a><br />
Innovation<br />
<a href="http://econlib.org/library/Enc/Innovation.html">http://econlib.org/library/Enc/Innovation.html</a><br />
Robert Solow's "Technical Change and the Aggregate Production Function"<br />
<a href="https://webspace.utexas.edu/hcleaver/www/330T/350kPEESolowTechChange.pdf">https://webspace.utexas.edu/hcleaver/www/330T/350kPEESolowTechChange.pdf</a><br />
<br />
<u>The Economist</u><br />
Innovation in economic growth and efficiency<br />
<a href="http://www.economist.com/node/14530154">http://www.economist.com/node/14530154</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.readwriteweb.com/hack/2012/07/how-open-source-hardware-is-driving-the-3d-printing-industry.php">http://www.readwriteweb.com/hack/2012/07/how-open-source-hardware-is-driving-the-3d-printing-industry.php</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.forbes.com/sites/tjmccue/2012/03/27/3d-printing-industry-will-reach-3-1-billion-worldwide-by-2016/">http://www.forbes.com/sites/tjmccue/2012/03/27/3d-printing-industry-will-reach-3-1-billion-worldwide-by-2016/</a></div>
ImagineN4tionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00796429891687193684noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4379675038340735292.post-7289066125213979462012-07-27T12:23:00.000-07:002012-07-27T12:23:17.568-07:00Educate to Innovate<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="text-align: center;">
"...we can inspire kids..." </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
The following is a short video from the White House's website on the Educate to Innovate initiative which is designed to promote STEM education. Engineers / Dreamers / World Changers / Role Models.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<object height="300" width="480"><param name="movie" value="http://www.whitehouse.gov/sites/all/modules/swftools/shared/flash_media_player/player5x2.swf"></param>
<param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param>
<param name="bgcolor" value="282828"></param>
<param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param>
<param name="flashvars" value="config=http://www.whitehouse.gov/xml/video/20835/config.xml&path_to_plugins=http://www.whitehouse.gov/sites/default/modules/wh_multimedia/wh_jwplayer/plugins&path_to_player=http://www.whitehouse.gov/sites/all/modules/swftools/shared/flash_media_player/player5x2.swf"></param>
<embed src="http://www.whitehouse.gov/sites/all/modules/swftools/shared/flash_media_player/player5x2.swf" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="300" flashvars="config=http://www.whitehouse.gov/xml/video/20835/config.xml&path_to_plugins=http://www.whitehouse.gov/sites/default/modules/wh_multimedia/wh_jwplayer/plugins&path_to_player=http://www.whitehouse.gov/sites/all/modules/swftools/shared/flash_media_player/player5x2.swf&share_url=http://www.whitehouse.gov/photos-and-video/video/2010/09/16/a-stem-education-tools-change-world"></embed></object></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>Video 1: </b>Educate to Innovate </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Get on board.</div>
</div>ImagineN4tionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00796429891687193684noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4379675038340735292.post-63249744233744184252012-07-23T12:22:00.000-07:002012-07-23T12:28:42.351-07:00Creativity<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="text-align: center;">
This is an inspirational short about Caine and his arcade. If only the world's CEOs had Caine's imagination and creativity...</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/faIFNkdq96U?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<br /></div>ImagineN4tionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00796429891687193684noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4379675038340735292.post-12920818690036166052012-07-22T19:15:00.002-07:002012-07-25T00:59:35.014-07:00DIY Metal Brake (continued 2)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<b>STEP 4: Fini!</b><br />
You are now finished and can start bending aluminum stock at will to create the worlds meanest brackets to hold your Arduino or whatever else you need to secure. Just don't use it for evil. Unless its only slightly evil, then it's probably OK.<br />
<br />
<b>To make a bend:</b><br />
1) Loosen the wing-nuts and slide the metal between the flat plate and part D and then tighten down the wing-nuts (image 17).<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGnexKUHnf-kjh-FmoH60BY1VltWEhiNirbdnv_UkYLxJYtH0m-60HJ8eEiE4xEw-7S9EHLU98OJZnaAvZwHC2IvbflP6lMStmh0NLsxoSYKyqsIIXrIYPN8yD8yM4emUUmTp8TYCcgEX3/s1600/photo+7.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGnexKUHnf-kjh-FmoH60BY1VltWEhiNirbdnv_UkYLxJYtH0m-60HJ8eEiE4xEw-7S9EHLU98OJZnaAvZwHC2IvbflP6lMStmh0NLsxoSYKyqsIIXrIYPN8yD8yM4emUUmTp8TYCcgEX3/s320/photo+7.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Image 17: </b>Aluminum inserted and wing-nuts tightened</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
2) Grab part A and rotate it towards part B (image 18).<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFzkoV3ByrJZPJbJw5Bl0VV5_apLvNQ4rUQRT_-RdUmvmyjgmJKo8Vwx9sYJxjNuxA3aH96vTEv9jU-_TPuyQSIRaug2WaIx4tRM4iT44LLMcLiUAJwcxGV_P3lwqJoL_dZxptClk5g_R0/s1600/photo+1a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFzkoV3ByrJZPJbJw5Bl0VV5_apLvNQ4rUQRT_-RdUmvmyjgmJKo8Vwx9sYJxjNuxA3aH96vTEv9jU-_TPuyQSIRaug2WaIx4tRM4iT44LLMcLiUAJwcxGV_P3lwqJoL_dZxptClk5g_R0/s320/photo+1a.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Image 18:</b> Start the bend by rotating part A towards part B<br />
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</tbody></table>
3) Rotate it to the appropriate angle you are trying to achieve, in my case 90 degrees (image 19).<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiApgJnqKk2YUjS7Gi-fCWkmCTIILVYWzKnUK2-Sij2TeJ4t3gTGeBy2C0QRupFnvSBScK9RnFOSmCycooIFZJYhsq6kXANUszJZ-XFXRtfqbNDrGHpOWRnZNGB88WvVl8EngswntCGZfBB/s1600/photo+2a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiApgJnqKk2YUjS7Gi-fCWkmCTIILVYWzKnUK2-Sij2TeJ4t3gTGeBy2C0QRupFnvSBScK9RnFOSmCycooIFZJYhsq6kXANUszJZ-XFXRtfqbNDrGHpOWRnZNGB88WvVl8EngswntCGZfBB/s320/photo+2a.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Image 19: </b>Stop bending when you achieve the desired angle<br />
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</tbody></table>
4) Return part A to its initial position once the bend is made (image 20).<span style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 18px; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyDtZtfEqqj4j46Kj4eDo4RRXr14vaTq3C_z21frpdyayjYcBrrM7cEo3LAQzYNgQyHqFuVlLQs1zGspfyiBVlCvQ5ZauKmVgKuYZmfsdLPsslI5dOG6NNjqF817cbT3bNHr9NnkgoiIkB/s1600/photo+3a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyDtZtfEqqj4j46Kj4eDo4RRXr14vaTq3C_z21frpdyayjYcBrrM7cEo3LAQzYNgQyHqFuVlLQs1zGspfyiBVlCvQ5ZauKmVgKuYZmfsdLPsslI5dOG6NNjqF817cbT3bNHr9NnkgoiIkB/s320/photo+3a.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Image 20:</b> Bend completed<br />
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</tbody></table>
5) Loosen the wing-nuts and remove your newly bent metal (image 21).<span style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 18px; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf5TwaFc1Nn5eAtFAZRg2d9l6CCrV2pfiDqaYulzuI8cZHoH4vGZ1Fe2G-KT9HNxbdOdLX_cq7m8AfQQlEOHZoZt6Kem4cDAjVs_qlFlbCPPGx9LeiaidqM2bTMBbAr53SOhHjDIHDx8-d/s1600/photo+4a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf5TwaFc1Nn5eAtFAZRg2d9l6CCrV2pfiDqaYulzuI8cZHoH4vGZ1Fe2G-KT9HNxbdOdLX_cq7m8AfQQlEOHZoZt6Kem4cDAjVs_qlFlbCPPGx9LeiaidqM2bTMBbAr53SOhHjDIHDx8-d/s320/photo+4a.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Image 21:</b> Newly bent metal removed from brake by loosening wing-nuts</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
That's it. Set forth and conquer.<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
</div>ImagineN4tionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00796429891687193684noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4379675038340735292.post-2020369145997263922012-07-22T19:15:00.001-07:002012-07-25T00:27:42.820-07:00DIY Metal Brake (continued 1)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<b>STEP 3: Ahhhh, Screw it!</b><br />
Let's assemble the parts now.<br />
<br />
Using four #8-32 x 3/8" machine screws along with lock washers and hex nuts, attach the hinges to part C as shown in image 9.<br />
<div>
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 18px; text-align: -webkit-auto;"> </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4UVTsvj8J2nHaSwczZZ5YU4IhtRYfIihOkqAka6wy63xuL_Mmh09I7M6ZCZkpJqmeSydpmPYj3_NxWZwGLYpWFVJ9uVRndQpmfUlgTphQn2p02nzly09L9bWtA6ypqZttkZyyGHoi7wV-/s1600/photo+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4UVTsvj8J2nHaSwczZZ5YU4IhtRYfIihOkqAka6wy63xuL_Mmh09I7M6ZCZkpJqmeSydpmPYj3_NxWZwGLYpWFVJ9uVRndQpmfUlgTphQn2p02nzly09L9bWtA6ypqZttkZyyGHoi7wV-/s320/photo+1.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><b>Image 9:</b> Hinges attached to part C</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Again, note that the rounded part of the hinge should be flush with the L bend in part C. Now attach part D to the hinges using another four #8-32 x 3/8" machine screws, lock washers and hex nuts. You should now be able to bend the hinge with parts C and D attached. You can create an X configuration (image 10) or a T configuration (image 11, looking at the top of the T) based on how it is bent.<br />
<div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie-a776hmi9bk7L5ZClQnpc-lqLciuPhenu5K36ugfTT-bcuTqVqB5iXes8pB5lz0HzUg06nJBFy5W1Ilj8Y05yN7XyzLqYhWujAXwMRfmyMaOuWIDIUJWrX51L65dn5LljxakFXtw8Ojy/s1600/photo+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie-a776hmi9bk7L5ZClQnpc-lqLciuPhenu5K36ugfTT-bcuTqVqB5iXes8pB5lz0HzUg06nJBFy5W1Ilj8Y05yN7XyzLqYhWujAXwMRfmyMaOuWIDIUJWrX51L65dn5LljxakFXtw8Ojy/s320/photo+2.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><b>Image 10:</b> X Configuration of parts C and D<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMJ_3Zu5QJwYjKBDtU3BuCW2HFw4LahL81BDMKWvPoyerJBSAlewdGWTvDcGepgjoo17O-T7Ds8y0xojgzihUeRoZzRsrpm0IwTQPTG0YsT4Y-tkbcvggO_CB_PdBBemLnRMQ6ZtM5cnYv/s1600/photo+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMJ_3Zu5QJwYjKBDtU3BuCW2HFw4LahL81BDMKWvPoyerJBSAlewdGWTvDcGepgjoo17O-T7Ds8y0xojgzihUeRoZzRsrpm0IwTQPTG0YsT4Y-tkbcvggO_CB_PdBBemLnRMQ6ZtM5cnYv/s320/photo+3.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Image 11: </b>T Configuration of parts C and D</td></tr>
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Image 12 shows all of the parts left to be attached to one another in roughly the positions they will be attached. Attach part A to part C (upper right in image 12) using the one hole left in each part along with one #8-32 x 3/8" machine screw, lock washer and hex nut. Image 13 shows part A connected to part C (left side) as well as part B connected to part D (right side). When you connect part B to part D you will want to use one of your long #8-32 x 1" machine screws and do not put a lock washer or hex nut on it. I also inserted a hex nut between parts B and D to reduce the parts from rattling around when the tool is not in use, however, this is not necessary (image 14).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdNRmPbx0qsqqgaMHAUM1la6M3tKFi1RPzFch7J1_W3139PmI9hi6-T_kz4AkX3pBs0uH0FtpThOyDahGLGn_PHmqsvtjTbPvXQdRdmc3lsBQkOsIqwuXcGlpZITga6UQUpIX0t3gCOAxR/s1600/photo+4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdNRmPbx0qsqqgaMHAUM1la6M3tKFi1RPzFch7J1_W3139PmI9hi6-T_kz4AkX3pBs0uH0FtpThOyDahGLGn_PHmqsvtjTbPvXQdRdmc3lsBQkOsIqwuXcGlpZITga6UQUpIX0t3gCOAxR/s320/photo+4.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Image 12: </b>Rough positioning of parts left to be assembled</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Image 13:</b> Parts A, B, C and D attached</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTp2TnQDWH3lVpywFXhkERfTmWVZ3c3d8MDyW2NoSIyRjg_RTWT_ZhfDre1K6zoKyUYtkK4m1GcV7u_Jq5wd4kB-GwEoF8UD5-jEVldvknC3uiuG7c2to9WEY8SVmtlJmAEcmlzFo8bPmK/s1600/photo+5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTp2TnQDWH3lVpywFXhkERfTmWVZ3c3d8MDyW2NoSIyRjg_RTWT_ZhfDre1K6zoKyUYtkK4m1GcV7u_Jq5wd4kB-GwEoF8UD5-jEVldvknC3uiuG7c2to9WEY8SVmtlJmAEcmlzFo8bPmK/s320/photo+5.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Image 14:</b> Hex nut inserted between parts B and D</td></tr>
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Once you have everything looking like image 13, flip the tool over (image 15), and insert the other long #8-32 x 1" machine screw through the final hole in part D.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Image 15:</b> Tool awaiting second 1" machine screw<br />
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Then, place the flat steel plate on the two long machine screws and place two wing-nuts on the screws (images 16 and 17).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Image 16:</b> Flat steel plated placed on long screws, wing-nuts in place</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Image 17:</b> Wing-nuts holding flat steel plate on part D</td></tr>
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</div>ImagineN4tionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00796429891687193684noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4379675038340735292.post-91790776853486745902012-07-22T19:15:00.000-07:002012-07-25T00:25:18.082-07:00DIY Metal Brake<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Here is the full build tutorial for the metal bending tool (aka: a metal brake). We hope this tutorial is helpful. Happy Making.<br />
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<b><br />METAL BRAKE:</b><br />
This project may not seem extremely exciting but it is very useful and satisfying to create other parts with once it is finished. It IS exciting, get EXCITED! If you are a true Maker, you are already teeming with excitement over the fact that you are reading another tutorial and expanding your mind's quiver.<br />
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Recently, I needed 90 degree bends in aluminum stock to create brackets for a project I have going. I grabbed $25, ran to Home Depot and after a few hours created my own metal bending tool. Quick, dirty, simple and cheap.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyh-KPAx8dCTQzLBbnfVYrgXmIxVmda2e04EBf4NVRtdQIStRfSEg7-mh0U1MCMdt0GPTfLyUfNWJ3J4Pvdiw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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<b>Movie 1</b>: Using the brake to create a 90 degree bend in aluminum</div>
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<b>A Few Quick Notes:</b><br />
The symbol " denotes inches. <br />
Quantities come before descriptions of materials and are followed by an "x". <br />
I used button head machine screws but in retrospect, it would be better to use flat head screws and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Countersink">countersink</a> them.<br />
Everything you need can easily be purchased at Home Depot or similar. <br />
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<b>Materials:</b><br />
1) 1x 2" width by 1/8" thick flat steel stock<br />
(I bought 36" of this for $6.97)<br />
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2) 1x 6" lengths of 1" Steel L bracket<br />
(I bought 36" of this for $6.47)<br />
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3) 9x #8-32 x 3/8" machine screws (preferably <a href="http://www.homerepairworkshop.com/?welcome/index/carpentry-drywall/machine-screw-reference-chart/01-07" target="_blank">flat head</a>)<br />
(I bought a box of 100 button heads for $5.80)<br />
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4) 2x #8-32 x 1" machine screws<br />
(I bought a 4 pack for $1.18)<br />
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5) 2x #8-32 wing-nuts<br />
(I bought a 6 pack for $1.18)<br />
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6) 9x #8 lock washers<br />
(I bought a 30 pack for $1.18)<br />
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7) 10x #8-32 hex nuts<br />
(I bought a 100 pack for $3.92)<br />
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8) 2x 1/2" hinges<br />
(I bought a 2 pack of 1.5" loose pin zinc hinges for $2.27)<br />
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This all adds up to just under $29 but if you skip the 100 and 30 packs of screws and washers and just get what you need, you should be able to get it down to $25.<br />
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<b>Tools:</b><br />
1) Metal saw<br />
(I got by with a hacksaw with a metal cutting blade)<br />
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2) Power Drill<br />
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3) 5/32" drill bit for metal<br />
(just big enough diameter to get a #8 screw through with a little coaxing from a screwdriver)<br />
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4) 5/16" drill bit for metal<br />
(not a must have but useful for cleaning up the edges on the smaller holes you drill)<br />
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5) Screwdriver<br />
(whichever type that corresponds to the machine screws you buy)<br />
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6) Pliers<br />
(For holding nuts while you tighten machine screws)<br />
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<b>Cost:</b> < $25 (not including tools)<br />
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<b>Time:</b> ~2 hours<br />
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<b>Drink:</b> Coffee.<br />
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<b>STEP 1: Cut Metal to Length</b><br />
First things first, take the steel L bracket and steel flat stock you have and cut it to length. You will need the following lengths:<br />
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1) 4x 6" lengths of steel L bracket (see image 1).<br />
2) 1x 6" length of steel flat stock (see image 2).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Image 1:</b> Steel L bracket</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Image 2: </b>Flat steel plate</td></tr>
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I cut these lengths the hard way using my hacksaw with a metal cutting blade attached. If you do not have any way of cutting metal you can pick up a hacksaw for cheap and get by. If you have a chop saw or band saw you can get through this stuff with, even better.<br />
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Note: Disregard the holes in the metal on the images above. We will take care of those in the next step.<br />
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<b>STEP 2: Drill a few holes!</b><br />
Take your four lengths of L bracket and individually label them parts A, B, C and D. From here on we will take about each length in this way.<br />
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In retrospect I should have purchased flat head #8 machine screws and countersunk them as that would make the tool all that much sexier, as well as alleviate some of the issues I had with the screw heads interfering with the hinges fully closing. Thus, if you can, find a large drill bit you can use to drill <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Countersink" target="_blank">countersinks</a> after drilling the initial holes and use flat head machine screws.<br />
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<b>Part A:</b><br />
Take the length of L bracket you labeled part "A" and drill one hole on the center line of one flange 1/2 inch from the end of the part (see image 3).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Image 3:</b> Part "A"</td></tr>
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<b>Part B:</b><br />
Take the length of L bracket you labeled part "B" and drill one hole on the center line of one flange 1/2 inch from the end of the part (see image 4). Note the difference in location of the hole between part A and part B.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Image 4:</b> Part "B"</td></tr>
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Note: The hinges mount to parts C and D and thus, the hole placement is critical and will differ by what hinges you use. The critical elements are placing the holes appropriately so that the round part of the hinge is flush with the edge of the L bracket (see image 5) and mounting the hinges close to the ends of parts C and D.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Image 5:</b> Note positioning of hinges on L bracket</td></tr>
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<b>Part C:</b><br />
Take the length of L bracket you labeled part "C" and drill four holes on one flange to mount your hinges to (see image 6). These four holes are for your hinges and it is critical that they are placed appropriately. Make sure you line the rounded edge of the hinge up with the edge of the L bracket when defining your hole placement.<br />
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On the opposite flange of part C drill one hole along the center line of the flange 1/2 inch from the end (see image 6).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Image 6:</b> Part "C"</td></tr>
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<b>Part D:</b><br />
Create part D just as you did part C but this time place two holes (one at each end, 1/2 inch from the end) on the opposite flange from the flange the hinges will mount to (see image 7).</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Image 7:</b> Part "D"</td></tr>
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Finally, take the 6 inch piece of flat steel stock and drill two holes as seen in image 8. The holes should be placed 1/2 inch from the end edges and 1/2 inch from the top edge.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Image 8:</b> Flat steel stock with holes</td></tr>
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</div>ImagineN4tionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00796429891687193684noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4379675038340735292.post-37914025394911654032012-07-17T09:54:00.004-07:002012-07-23T12:58:24.059-07:00PIR Sensor Wheelchair Cyclops!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Ever seen a wheelchair bound cyclops stuck in a reverse loop? Behold... PIR Cyclops! The Cyclops detects motion using the PIR sensor (his eyeball) and once it is detected, he wheels backwards for a short time (using a continuous servo).<br />
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<br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxwkvev1o5DsCzVm3UPhptem7LhEW900-XjMp9vp3hFolnb_upem5HDzmgUfoTtjJ9xqFDddEx0ptbMygjh0g' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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<b>Video 1: The PIR Cyclops in action.</b></div>
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This guy was built using an Arduino, PIR sensor and a continuous servo. All readily available from <a href="http://adafruit.com/">adafruit.com</a>. Full on instructions for creating this little guy will be posted to the blog and also the instructables website soon. The Arduino code is posted below. Also, here are a few pictures (no specific order) of the build:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7vCFmiOmoLr7pnblIS2Oig_3Eve3gu39QK0yJQtSg9Wv6M5Awso4lJGaCiWFqHftsnOcURL3Wx96bvjnaXJnLskQlF-tO2fPZRSED71iWUtgRlCOI4xcikPjsiQNX5M-j7aDt2qvFAG3j/s1600/photo+12.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7vCFmiOmoLr7pnblIS2Oig_3Eve3gu39QK0yJQtSg9Wv6M5Awso4lJGaCiWFqHftsnOcURL3Wx96bvjnaXJnLskQlF-tO2fPZRSED71iWUtgRlCOI4xcikPjsiQNX5M-j7aDt2qvFAG3j/s320/photo+12.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>Image 1: Wiring for the PIR sensor is routed through the Cyclops' neck.</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEika6YQ8QF_YIpGDBONtvYEQUDyG3omwGzrmRmB_ZMJ43n21uOB0hchWEm24bCzVISUaeBq9oTdjyBmndFcC61PMscO2H2R-9NBn_F82yGjuX4uA4V_S-CPi3iG9ESEchULCfUIzNNCf_uT/s1600/photo+15.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEika6YQ8QF_YIpGDBONtvYEQUDyG3omwGzrmRmB_ZMJ43n21uOB0hchWEm24bCzVISUaeBq9oTdjyBmndFcC61PMscO2H2R-9NBn_F82yGjuX4uA4V_S-CPi3iG9ESEchULCfUIzNNCf_uT/s320/photo+15.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<b>Image 2: Arms and hands are painted and connected.</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL82M2J-H323ShKTWAp3p_Gz9aGzrVEPuGtwyd8Z-yVIxh_h5Irgwf817jJBYhvNY1xIZbOe_2HKooiA5nz4YqNKIqcmDURCEWGHymIl9H8xkZ1PYFs0NtGZM-aFNZ_vJ3cDSIOcHhAqu_/s1600/photo+23.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL82M2J-H323ShKTWAp3p_Gz9aGzrVEPuGtwyd8Z-yVIxh_h5Irgwf817jJBYhvNY1xIZbOe_2HKooiA5nz4YqNKIqcmDURCEWGHymIl9H8xkZ1PYFs0NtGZM-aFNZ_vJ3cDSIOcHhAqu_/s320/photo+23.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>Image 3: Foam is spackled and sanded to create the pieces of the Cyclops' body.</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDs5rdBdCaygqrPXvEpSI1DQ9iBXVn6t6_JmKyvDZes4CI7-7_w_LRR0T4y7ud1hR6EdtmkssdFmRqzyLT1KSBNxMzrD5RNR0Um-jpotOQFoIOJkKYLCVV_zV9iyzaQYdmfR8hADwk28YW/s1600/photo+42.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDs5rdBdCaygqrPXvEpSI1DQ9iBXVn6t6_JmKyvDZes4CI7-7_w_LRR0T4y7ud1hR6EdtmkssdFmRqzyLT1KSBNxMzrD5RNR0Um-jpotOQFoIOJkKYLCVV_zV9iyzaQYdmfR8hADwk28YW/s320/photo+42.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<b>Image 4: The rough shape of the Cyclops is cut from a foam block. The PIR sensor is inserted into the Cyclops' head.</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidvXx7PwnY-c6qaRgClcidjx9xGmmPzV-9G_s-nqx7oAFVMazJFiowub48OtnDWVjfObTatRTucEh_ZMlfF-3uuez7-tp934T7J86i336TwKNXSmhyWBBDrEQijuERExPwll_FvjXEMvp1/s1600/photo+55.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidvXx7PwnY-c6qaRgClcidjx9xGmmPzV-9G_s-nqx7oAFVMazJFiowub48OtnDWVjfObTatRTucEh_ZMlfF-3uuez7-tp934T7J86i336TwKNXSmhyWBBDrEQijuERExPwll_FvjXEMvp1/s320/photo+55.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<b>Image 5: Rubber bands hold shut the trap door in the bottom of the wheelchair where the Arduino connects to the PIR sensor, continuous servo and power source (9V battery).</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik42RBzobExEX3In0Fcon4M8-k2DayDuyNI4VxBKtGIoNST-HMkz3OmsA07BdtxHH6M4DNj_jdzkdY6axvT2t7X_79JQBLTvrdlG13pJqznJowDHtb-bqAoAJhP6zN-mgQCwbYinpucnMW/s1600/photo+6.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik42RBzobExEX3In0Fcon4M8-k2DayDuyNI4VxBKtGIoNST-HMkz3OmsA07BdtxHH6M4DNj_jdzkdY6axvT2t7X_79JQBLTvrdlG13pJqznJowDHtb-bqAoAJhP6zN-mgQCwbYinpucnMW/s320/photo+6.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>Image 6: The armless Cyclops waits for a few final parts.</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivHoStQRCFzmiO8Bvdaqrt_METqo8M0qD1ZwQDXSpd0zoVrn_JVpFAfvVK_vg6gtwS2YxG18kAnPS5eHbkZ_JxWZXQxP3Bx__mRWK8iLk053K1bg3crn4JbqUyxeQzFTpv_l6xNnHJ5jnu/s1600/photo+9.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivHoStQRCFzmiO8Bvdaqrt_METqo8M0qD1ZwQDXSpd0zoVrn_JVpFAfvVK_vg6gtwS2YxG18kAnPS5eHbkZ_JxWZXQxP3Bx__mRWK8iLk053K1bg3crn4JbqUyxeQzFTpv_l6xNnHJ5jnu/s320/photo+9.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>Image 7: The continuous servo is attached to one of the wheels on the wheelchair.</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0jnSVw-ipuUKHFEWRIBEAaSLiggFEf32m3Zpv8T2MJCK7UQS77X5Qe7Yn74hSu_LYwRgd2NmpeaU8x5_97czw9CgdEX6andQjY8BeknkNq57titaBsMjcgTrtTxJUGWB2Yq92E7Qs4gE1/s640/blogger-image--1569818705.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0jnSVw-ipuUKHFEWRIBEAaSLiggFEf32m3Zpv8T2MJCK7UQS77X5Qe7Yn74hSu_LYwRgd2NmpeaU8x5_97czw9CgdEX6andQjY8BeknkNq57titaBsMjcgTrtTxJUGWB2Yq92E7Qs4gE1/s640/blogger-image--1569818705.jpg" /></a></div>
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<b>Image 8: The finished product sits motionless waiting to detect movement.</b></div>
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<b>Arduino CODE:</b></div>
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// Servo driven by PIR Sensor</div>
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// Whim of ImagineN4tion</div>
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// 5.21.2012</div>
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#include <Servo.h></div>
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Servo myservo; // create servo object to control a servo </div>
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// a maximum of eight servo objects can be created </div>
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int PIR = 2; //Define what pin the PIR sensor is on</div>
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int PIRval = 0; //Define variable that will store the PIR reading, set to 0 for now</div>
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int servo = 9; //Define what pin the servo is on</div>
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void setup(){</div>
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//Serial.begin(9600); //Start the serial port</div>
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pinMode(PIR, INPUT);</div>
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pinMode(servo, OUTPUT);</div>
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myservo.attach(servo); // attaches the servo on pin 9 to the servo object </div>
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}</div>
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void loop(){</div>
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PIRval = digitalRead(PIR); //Read the PIR sensor on pin 2 and store the value to 'PIRval'</div>
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//Serial.println("sensor reading =");</div>
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//Serial.println(PIRval); //Print the value stored in PIR to the serial port</div>
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//Note the servo being used here is a continuous rotation servo calibrated so that</div>
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//the servo is stopped at a write value of 90. Forward = 180, reverse = 0. </div>
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if(PIRval == LOW){ //If there is no movement do nothing</div>
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myservo.write(90);</div>
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}</div>
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else{ // Else if there is movement drive servo forward</div>
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myservo.write(180);</div>
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}</div>
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}</div>
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</div>ImagineN4tionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00796429891687193684noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4379675038340735292.post-31351881396824090442012-07-02T19:51:00.000-07:002012-07-17T09:58:01.120-07:00Shapeways and Blender<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Used Blender to create a simple water-tight 3d object and overlayed an image map to it. Ship those files over to Shapeways and in 12 days you got yourself something tangible... custom bobbleheads anyone!?<br />
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<br /></div>ImagineN4tionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00796429891687193684noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4379675038340735292.post-81484146955306712452012-05-09T07:58:00.001-07:002012-05-09T07:59:26.632-07:00Virtual Machine Shops and Scalable Manufacturing<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
A common problem across the making world is the lack of ability to quickly scale product/part manufacturing at a reasonable cost. Having your products' CAD files parked at multiple virtual machine shops can help you pump out products on a whim. Here are a few resources that might help you navigate spikes in order volume.<br />
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Whether you are looking to have parts made on a very small scale or very large scale you are in luck. Virtual machine shops are popping up left and right allowing anyone with a computer and some free CAD software to play Mr(s). Engineer.<br />
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<b><u>Start here:</u></b><br />
Ponoko is a great place to start as they provide links to CAD software you can use to design new parts as well as offering a service to fabricate said part.<br />
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<a href="http://www.ponoko.com/make-and-sell/design-it-yourself">http://www.ponoko.com/make-and-sell/design-it-yourself</a><br />
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Shapeways is another great starting place for having your parts created. You can find them at:<br />
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<span style="color: #0000ee;"><u>http://www.shapeways.com/</u></span><br />
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<b><u>Swing through here: </u></b><br />
Have you pumped out a few prototypes and are now looking to sweeten the deal by scaling up your quantities and minimizing your manufacturing costs? Check out mfg.com: <br />
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<a href="http://www.mfg.com/">http://www.mfg.com/</a><br />
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ImagineN4tion spoke with a representative from mfg.com recently about the viability of small to medium scale operations having their products produced through the mfg.com platform. Mfg.com confirmed that their service is not only for the big fish in the sea but also the small fish, aka: Makers attempting to scale up their product manufacturing capability. Here are the tips we received for small fish maximizing the value in their platform:<br />
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1) Submit RFQs (Request For Quotes) for multiple products at the same time. This helps the manufacturers realize you are a serious potential client that did not simply make one product and only need three of them manufactured.<br />
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2) Do not send out RFQs left and right unless you are seriously looking at having something created. Forcing manufacturers to spend their time pricing quotes repeatedly and then never placing an order does not reflect well on you. Thus, use RFQs with products you are serious about scaling up.<br />
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3) Use your mfg.com account representative as an information resource. When you create an account with mfg.com you will be contacted by one of their account representatives. These account representatives are very helpful and can help you navigate the landscape of the manufacturing world. They are a valuable resource. Make use of them!<br />
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<b><u>End here:</u></b><br />
Sell all your widgets and booyah, Profit.</div>ImagineN4tionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00796429891687193684noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4379675038340735292.post-74070708720164099102012-05-08T21:31:00.000-07:002012-07-19T00:17:51.311-07:00Open Source Hardware - OSHW<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Open Source what, Open Under Ware who... ?<br />
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<b><u>OSHW, What is it?</u></b><br />
What is Open Source Hardware, or OSHW? What exactly does OSHW mean? Even though Dave here is an electrical engineer and generally they are nothing but trouble, we will lend him our ears as he does a great job explaining OSHW on his video blog:<br />
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<a href="http://www.eevblog.com/2011/08/12/eevblog-195-open-source-hardware-explained/">http://www.eevblog.com/2011/08/12/eevblog-195-open-source-hardware-explained/</a><br />
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<b><u>Why is OSHW Significant?</u></b><br />
Lets take this to the next level and better understand how OSHW has been evolving and dancing with innovation and the entrepreneurial community. Remo Giovanni Abbondandolo investigates entrepreneurial opportunities for OSHW users in his Master Thesis which can be found online here:<br />
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<a href="http://businessoshw.com/abstract/">http://businessoshw.com/abstract/</a><br />
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<b><u>Where do we go from here?</u></b><br />
So, what are your thoughts on the subject? Let us hear your opinion.<br />
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1) How do we better foster entrepreneurial activity in the OSHW/Maker/Hacker/Social Building community?<br />
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2) How do we promote more collaboration on projects spanning multiple skill sets?<br />
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3) What virtual and physical resources are crucial in helping the community monetize their ideas and builds?<br />
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<br /></div>ImagineN4tionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00796429891687193684noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4379675038340735292.post-83158037836251765432012-04-27T15:31:00.001-07:002012-07-24T22:55:41.136-07:00Thermoelectric (Peltier) Wine Cooler<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Have you ever bought a wine cooler? They are huge, bulky and ri-donck-u-louse looking. First off, it does not make any sense to design a wine cooler as a cube. The main goal should be to minimize the surface area of the enclosure as that is where heat transfer occurs and thus is a large dictator of how much energy you must feed the system. Wine bottles naturally stack in a triangle and in this fashion they are packed the tightest. So, why not design a triangle shaped enclosure that minimizes how much heat we must pump out of the enclosure and thus how much energy we are using? Seems reasonable, right? Here is a first pass at doing so.<br />
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First off, some initial calculations to get a feel for how much heat we gotta pump outta this thing. We will shoot for a cooler roughly sized to hold three wine bottles or a sixer of Busch Light, yum. We will only consider conductive heat transfer for the time being. The amount of energy we need to pump out of the cooler through the TEC (Qpump) is then equal to the amount of heat weaseling its way through our insulation (Qin) and the amount of power we are feeding to the TEC (Qjoule). Qjoule will not actually be the amount of power we are feeding the TEC but we can use it as a worst case scenario.<br />
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<b>Image 1:</b> Initial thoughts on size and heat transfer involved </div>
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Based on some proposed dimensions for the cooler, an estimate of the k value of our insulation (the k value just quantifies how good or bad insulation is), and the desired temperature of our wine (55*F) relative to normal room temp (75*F) we can calculate Qin. I doubled the Qin value as originally calculated it was the absolute minimum amount of heat needed to be pumped to retain desired temperature if all else were to remain constant. As there will also be some small amount of conductive and radiative heat transfer taking place we will need a little more heat pumping capacity. We also might run into different environments where it is necessary to pump more heat, aka: if room temp is greater than 75*F.<br />
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<b>Image 2:</b> Solving for conductive heat transfer and power added by TEC</div>
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Here is an ugly looking diagram of how the components will all be connected. I will post later exactly what was used to create the cooler once I fine tune it along with a cleaner diagram.</div>
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<b>Image 3:</b> Component diagram</div>
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<b>Note</b>: a wine bottle at room temperature that is put in a wine cooler holds latent heat that also needs to be pumped out of the enclosure. This was not included in the initial sizing of the TEC due to the fact that if you can pump more heat out than is entering from the outside surroundings (Qin) this latent heat will eventually be pumped out as well... it just might take awhile.<br />
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So as it stands, with some Busch League All-Star (definition: bad, crappy, swagged, horribly awesome) code I slapped together here is what it looks like and how it is functioning. <br />
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Something has gone horribly wrong with uploading this video so here is the link to how the user interface is currently functioning (can't embed vimeo :( ): </div>
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<a href="https://vimeo.com/46209356" target="_blank">https://vimeo.com/46209356</a></div>
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<b>Image 4: </b>Outside of enclosure, wiring yet to be subdued</div>
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<b>Image 5: </b>Looking in the side hatch, foam insulation visible</div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">More to come on this project...</span></div>
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<br /></div>ImagineN4tionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00796429891687193684noreply@blogger.com1